It's been a strange but busy season.  Not all the tests were held but there was enough to meet old friends and fellow competitors.  We were lucky to win 3 opens.  Druid won 2 and Fia 1.  The working test season isn't finished yet and we hope that we are lucky enough to get a run at Scone and see how that goes.  All in all this has been a good year at Accio Gundogs for working tests and we look forward to the shooting season where we will be picking up and competing in Field Trials.

First test of the season and our all-lady team won second at the Hectorkirk charity team challenge in North Yorkshire. It was good ground, set up for testing the dog at all levels. Thanks go to CAB for their generosity to the prize winners, and Dog & Field working dog food.

There may not be too many working tests this year due to corona virus, so it was good to get Druid out into a competition to see how he does. 

I put a lot of training into him after the end of the shooting season and before the start of the test season, which realistically is only about 6 weeks (in the worst of the winter weather with little or no daylight after work). The dogs are always a bit wild after picking up for 5 or 6 months, and the transition from finding game to finding a canvas bag full of sawdust can be difficult - I know what the dogs prefer.  Working tests are about precision and handling with a judge at your shoulder watching your every move, there is a lot more team work required between dog and handler to find the dummy.  Dogs can be used to being more self-employed picking up, where they are often just told to go and get on with it without little intervention from the handler.  So having to get the dog's head back into taking pressure (instruction) from the handler needs work.  At a shoot you often do not know where the fallen game is, at a test you are given the location. To expect a dog to go in a straight line indicated by the handler and to not deviate unless told, is a big ask after they have been running around unseen without the handler looking for shot game for months. 

The Scottish selection for the Skinners International Retrievers competition is late March and your dog must be as good as he can be by then to be in the running for the Scotland Team. We got through to the second round last year and I had been working hard on improving the things we did poorly last time.  Unfortunately Skinners has been cancelled this year but I'm glad my hard work didn't go to waste.  

You are only as good as your last retrieve, and Druid did very well on the last exercise of the charity team test.  So I will enjoy the warm glow until next time when it all goes belly up and you are brought back down to earth with a thud.  But as they say, the more you practice the luckier you get.......................................
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​​Helping you to choose the right dog for your home. In part one I discussed health problems and risks, and in part two I told you what you need to do before you go to see the pup. This part gives you some alternatives to think about.

• My first dog was from a rescue centre.
• My second was a street rescue dog.
• The next dog was from a puppy farm.
• I then bought a failed gundog.
• I gave a forever home to a friends gundog after their health failed.
• For the past 5 years I have owned health tested pedigree dogs. 

That's my experience, and here are some more of my thoughts on the subject of buying a puppy or what might be better for your needs.  
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​Is a puppy better than an older rescue dog?- A lot of people want a pup to prevent taking on anyone else's problems, and the risk that it might be a danger to children. But not all rescue dogs are screwed up, and for those with behaviour problems a lot of the time their bad behaviour was caused by the owner not caused by a bad dog. I have seen for myself how dogs change with new owners.  You have a second chance to change the way a dog behaves by doing things differently. If you rehome through a reputable UK rescue organisation you will get an idea of the dogs strengths and weaknesses, and they will endeavour to match a dog to a new family that suits both needs. A rescue dog can be a mixed breed too but for a lot less money.  Another advantage is that they are often past the puppy stage so you don't have the chewing and the peeing and the puppy madness, which can be a challenge for those not experienced. However, if you are thinking of a rescue dog imported from outside the UK read this post from the British Veterinary Association about some of the risks they are concerned about. If you already have a rescue dog and are struggling, then get in touch with a dog trainer who can help you read the dog and respond appropriately to get the behaviour you want.

​Finally, why not try rehoming a retired or failed gundog?
It may be the best option if you are working full time, or older and don't have the time or energy to train a young dog or pup.  Gundogs have been raised and trained to walk to heel and come back when called - job done. Failed gundogs may be too soft in nature - perfect for a loving family home. Older working gundogs often find it hard to retire and it is not fair if they are left in the kennel when the younger dogs are taken out to shoots. The retired dogs know what is happening and they are being left behind which is sad. A kenneled rescue dog will adjust to living in your home given time - a crate might help them transition. They are most likely to be healthy and intelligent companions for all ages. Ask someone who trials and I'm sure they can put you in touch with someone wishing to rehome a gundog, I share dogs on my facebook page, or why not try Labrador Retriever Rescue Scotland,or Perthshire Gundog Rescue.

​Other Useful links; introducing dogs to children and babies, puppy socialisation.

​In part one I discussed health problems and risks, and in this part I will tell you what you need to do before you go to see the pup. Part three is about rescue dogs and the risks and benefits.
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• My first dog was a "jackador" mixed breed pup from a rescue centre.
• My second was an street rescue beardied collie (hypoallergenic).
• The next dog was meant to be a jack russell pup from a puppy farm.
• I then bought a pedigree failed gundog at about a year old.
• I rehomed a pedigree gundog when the owner's health failed.
• For the past 5 years I have owned health tested pedigree dogs. 

That's my experience, and here are my insights on the subject of buying a puppy.
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What pups are the most popular and in fashion? - A lot of people want a fashionable designer dog that is good with children, and a popular choice seems to be a labradoodle or cockapoo. We spoke about the potential health problems and risks that come with these dogs in part one. But here I wanted to focus on a common misconception "you only get what you pay for".  You will often pay more for a designer dog than a pure bred pedigree dog. Mixed bred dogs are unreasonably expensive because they are so popular, and this is why they are targeted by disreputable breeders or puppy farms. Buyer beware, puppy farms go to great lengths to hide the origin of the pup. Read more about tips on what to look out for to prevent buying a puppy farm pup.​ Know what to look for in a healthy pup and know how to recognise a responsible breeder.

When you visit the pups do look out for the following signs:

• Visible ribs
• Dull, scruffy coat
• Sore patches of skin
• Red or crusty eyes
• Runny eyes or nose
• Coughing
• Signs of diarrhoea, staining around the tail / bottom
• Signs of external parasites (e.g. fleas), such as black flecks in the fur, scratching, areas of hair loss, or thickened skin, for example around the ear edges or at the tail base. 
• Weakness, wobbliness or difficulty standing up
• Becoming tired very quickly on interaction or play
• Noisy or laboured breathing
• Limping, difficulty walking or lifting legs
• A hunched or crouched body posture. 
• Straining when passing faeces or urine

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​Read more on rules for choosing a dog.

I bought a puppy from a puppy farm
I did it, I saw an advert online with a telephone contact. I had taken a week off work and I hadn't found anything for the breed I was looking for. I wanted instant gratification. We met in a car park and before we even spoke I knew I was taking that puppy home with me.  It looked like the breed I wanted. I gave him the money he gave me the pup.  I tried to call him later but the number he gave me didn't work and that was the last I ever saw of the person. The pup hadn't been vaccinated or wormed and needed immediate treatment from the vet. I was lucky, the dog had no life threatening illness or parvovirus, no behavioural issues caused by being removed too soon from it's mum, or lack of socialisation. But the pup was a mongrel and not pure bred and it didn't grow into what I expected. This happened a long time ago now, and I have learned a lot since then.

Remember, you should never allow someone to bring a puppy to you, you should be able to see the environment in which they lived in. Always ask to see them interact with their mum and siblings.

​Here is what I think you need to know before you go to see the pup.

Know what the law is in relation to selling puppies - a pup cannot be sold under the age of 8 weeks. Know the laws in relation to breeders in Scotland, is the breeder licenced?. Are you considering a rescue dog or pup from outwith the UK - if it was born outside the UK it must have either a pet passport or a veterinary certificate. The breeder should supply you with microchip paperwork which includes your puppy’s individual identification number and database they are registered with. Vaccination records should be stamped by the veterinary practice and signed by a veterinary surgeon.

Questions to ask the breeder:

•  Where were the puppies born (indoors or outside in a kennel)? Ask to see the mother with the pups. 
• Has the parents been vaccinated, and if so when?  Ask to see the vaccination card.
• Has the mother been wormed before giving birth? When were the pups wormed and what with?
•  Was the mother tested for canine herpes, and given innoculations?
  
• Have any of the puppies had health problems? Have either of the parents had any health issues?
• Has or will the puppies be given their first vaccinations prior to homing? If so what vaccine will be used? (check with your vet they can continue this vaccine).
• Have the parents been screened to check for the absence of any inherited diseases that can be tested in that breed? If so - what were the results? Ask to see the paperwork. 
• Do the parents have current eye certificates? Ask to see the paperwork.
• What are the hip and elbow scores of the mother and father? Ask to see the paperwork or check online with the Kennel Club if the dog is registered.
• Has or will the breeder start to house train and socialise the puppies before they are homed?
• Have the puppies met and been handled by a range of different people?
•  Is there any endorsements on the pedigree?
  
• How many people interact with the puppies? Is it normal for the puppies to experience people coming and going to prepare them for normal household experiences?
• Are the puppies with people during the day, or do they only have contact at particular times (e.g. only for periods of play and feeding?)
• Have the puppies been microchipped?

Pedigree - do your homework before you go to see the pup when your head is still rational. If a dog has a pedigree it means you can check its history and health tests online. A useful website to use (if you know the registered name of the sire and dam) is k9data.com which list health tests and pedigree, or The Kennel Club www.thekennelclub.org.uk/breeding. 

• If someone says their breeding dogs have a pedigree, don't just take their word for it, check that it is registered with the Kennel Club before you go.
• The Parents are registered but the pups can't be - is this because the mother has had more than 4 litters? You can check this online before you go.
• Even if a dog is not registered ask to see the health tests for the parents; eyes, hips, elbows, genetic diseases.
• Does the breeder have a licence, is the breeder an assured breeder? Do they have a website, facebook page, or is it just a contact telephone number? Do you know the signs to prevent buying from a puppy farm?. Read more 

What is the difference between a pedigree show or working dog?
I would say there are two types of pedigree dogs, show dogs and working dogs.  They are the same breed but bred for different functions, especially within my area of interest - retrievers.  Show dogs can look completely different from working dogs, this can be because they are bred for different reasons.  Think of a show dog as a supermodel and a working dog as an athlete/soldier. Their shape is often different and sometimes their colour. Working dogs are the ones bred for shooting and hunting, used by gamekeepers shooters and those that compete in field trials and working tests. Some people use show retrievers to do the things working dogs do, or a combination of both. I would say however that their instincts and abilities are not as sharp as those bred specifically for that purpose. But they love it all the same. You can have a working dog and not do any of the above things, you just need to understand what motivates and drives their behaviour. Working dogs can often be more intelligent and require tired minds and body to prevent frustration.

If you look at a pedigree and the name of the dog is in red what does that mean? 
This means that the dog is a field trial champion.  It has proven skills and abilities in relation to finding game. Sometimes that is a good thing and sometimes that is a bad thing. It depends on what you want to do with the dog. If you just want a stay at home pet and you don't exercise it's mind, a highly bred working dog might not be the best thing for you. If that's what you have got and you are having problems, then the best thing to do is go see a trainer and give it a job (like agility).


​​Useful links; Link to UK Go​vernment - Buying a Dog guidance , 10 steps to puppy buying, Introducing dogs to children and babies, puppy socialisation. ​

Read about my puppy owning experiences over 25 years, the mistakes I would not do again, and answers to common questions and difficulties about choosing the right dog for your home. What to do before you go to see the puppy.

My first pup was a mixed breed from a rescue centre. My second was a 6 months old street rescue beardie collie. The next pup was meant to be a jack russell pup who came from a puppy farm. I then bought a pedigree kennel-reared failed gundog at about a year old. She looked healthy so I didn't health test, but she died suddenly in middle age and her pup is going blind. For the past 5 years I have owned health tested pedigree dogs. I loved them all but wouldn't make the same mistakes again.

That's my experience, and here are my thoughts on the subject of buying a puppy.  In part two I will tell you what you need to do before you go to see the pup.
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• Why get a pup with a pedigree? - If a dog is not registered with the KC then you are taking a big risk. The risks are that the pup might have or develop health issues from its parents, or it might not be the breed you think it is. You also don't know how the Mum has been treated and may have had more than 4 litters.  You just have to take the breeders word for it.  If a bitch has a pedigree it means there are breeding restrictions and you can check its puppy history and health tests online. This is a good thing and I will tell you where to check for these in part two. A breeder who has registered dogs with the Kennel Club must abide by it's code of ethics.  If the mother has a pedigree but the pups won't be registered it may be because the pups are not pure bred or that the breeder has not followed the restrictions. Checkout this KC information guide.
• What pups are best if you have allergies? - You probably want something that won't shed as much, depending on what you are allergic to. This is commonly claimed to be associated with mixed breeds such as a labradoodles, or cockapoos. But these dogs definitely don't come with a pedigree, and may not have health tests.  Designer dogs and mixed breeds can still be affected by the poor health issues of the breeds they originated from read more. For example, Addisons disease comes from the poodle side and the dog will need treatment for the rest of it's life. Breeders with good healthy examples of the pure breed are less likely to use them for cross-breeding. Therefore, you still need to ask for health tests (eye and genetic tests) for mixed breed dogs. There are pure pedigree breeds that shed less dog hair - these are often where the labradoodles and cockapoos got that trait from - poodles for example. A pure bred dog is more likely to have a pedigree and health tests.   Checkout this list of pedigree non-shedding dogs,  or info guide on asthma and your dog. 

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​What is the benefit of buying a pup from health tested parents?
"Healthy dogs create healthy puppies - All pedigree and crossbred dogs can suffer from inherited diseases which are passed on from parent to puppy. Health testing and screening allows owners and breeders to screen for inherited diseases, the results can then be used to help make sure that only healthy dogs are bred from. Responsible breeders should always health test the dogs they plan to use for breeding. To make sure you are buying a happy and health puppy, always ask to see the relevant health test results for both parents."
Quote Source

Firstly, be aware that health tests don't just mean they tell you that they had the vet check the pups over and they were fine. It means the pups parents hips and elbows have been independently assessed and lodged with the Kennel Club for those with pedigrees, and it means that blood tests have been taken to check for a range of genetic diseases common to the breed, and that their eyes are tested annually. Read more.

If the mum has been vaccinated, new born puppies get some protection against diseases through their mother’s milk that can help keep them healthy before they are able to get vaccinated themselves. Unfortunately, puppies that have been illegally imported or that were bred on puppy farms could be much more likely to suffer serious illnesses like parvovirus as their mums won’t have been vaccinated so can’t pass on their immunity.  

There are many pedigree dogs who have been bred responsibly but who may not have been health tested. The mother looks healthy but there is no guarantee against, or reduced risk of, hip or elbow dysplasia, or genetic diseases like PRA and blindness. Read more.

What is hip or elbow dysplasia?
Hip and elbow dysplasia are both complex inherited diseases that cause a dog’s joints to develop incorrectly, which can result in pain, arthritis and lameness as they get older. Read more

A pedigree dog's parents who are health tested gives you the best chance of proven robustness or confirmation, because of a written guarantee of being clear of prescribed genetic diseases, and a reduced likelihood of expensive vet bills/ or a shortened pet life/ or a life of pain and discomfort.

Why should I test my bitch if I do not intend to spay her?
Some dogs may be carriers of a genetic disease and you would still have a healthy pet, but if you breed it (accidently or on purpose) with another carrier then some of the pups will get that genetic disease.  However, it's important to keep the gene pool as wide as possible, breeding a carrier to a non carrier means the pups will only be carriers. This is why health tests are important it allows you to make informed breeding choices. On the Kennel Club website you can enter the sire and dam's details and find out the likelihood of any issues or risks.  

"The more informed you are does not remove a risk but it does reduce it." Read more on the breed health information for labrador retrievers.


​Useful links; introducing dogs to children and babies, puppy socialisation.